Koča pri Triglavskih jezerih, Triglav National Park Trek, Julian Alps, Slovenia | Moon & Honey Travel

Triglav National Park, Slovenia

Last Updated: August 2018

A guide to hiking across Triglav National Park in 5 days

Triglav National Park is the largest protected area in Slovenia and covers an area of 838 square kilometers. This alpine wonderland encompasses a huge chunk of the Julian Alps (Julijske Alpe), which is part of the Southern Limestone Alps. The park’s name is derived from the highest mountain in Slovenia, Mount Triglav (2864 m).

We hiked five days in Triglav National Park, starting at Vršič Pass (close to Kranjska Gora) and ending at Lake Bohinj. Because this is a thru-hike, we relied on public transit to get to the trailhead. See Stages 1 and 5 of this guide for transit details. We designed this custom itinerary across Triglav National Park to see the highlights of the Eastern Julian Alps, including the high alpine plateau of Kriških podih, Mount Triglav, the Seven Lakes Valley, Luknja pass and the fairy tale pasture around Planini pri Jezeru. This hut-to-hut hike was sensational. It rewarded us with enchanting views of mountains, edelweiss, ibex and alpine lakes.

This Triglav National Park guide outlines each stage of our trek through the Julian Alps. It was a challenging hike, but definitely manageable, and significantly easier than our trek through the Kamnik-Savinja Alps. We’ve also included tips on how to save money, what to pack, and where to stay. For those that are interested in exploring Triglav National Park, but don’t have the time, or inclination to hike across the park for 5 days, check out our post: 7 amazing hikes in Slovenia,

 

Triglav National Park 5-Day Hiking Trek Itinerary 

  • Day 1 (Optional): Vršič Pass – Slemenova spica – Poštarski dom na Vršiču
  • Day 2: Poštarski dom na Vršiču – Pogačnikov dom na Kriških podih
  • Day 3: Pogačnikov dom na Kriških podih – Koča na Doliču
  • Day 4: Koča na Doliču – Koča pri Triglavskih jezerih
  • Day 5: Koča pri Triglavskih jezerih – Lake Bohinj

 

Triglav National Park Hiking Guide Includes:

  • Where is Triglav National Park?
  • Hut-to-Hut Planning Tips: discounts, reservations, budget
  • Stages 1 – 5 Explained: stage overview, where to stay
  • Slovenian Alps Packing List: passport, sleeping bag liner, polarized sunglasses etc…
Edelweiss, Julian Alps, Slovenia | Moon & Honey Travel

Where is Triglav National Park

Triglav National Park is located in north-western Slovenia. The park territory corresponds with the Eastern Julian Alps and neighbors north-eastern Italy. The park is accessible from Kranjska Gora, Trenta, Soča, Bovec, Ukanc, Stara Fužina, and many other towns. The highest peak in the park is Mount Triglav, 2864 m.

Stages
  • Stage 1
  • Stage 2
  • Stage 3
  • Stage 4
  • Stage 5
Triglav National Park Trek, Julian Alps, Slovenia | Moon & Honey Travel

Hiking Hut-to-Hut in Slovenia - Planning Tips

Make Reservations for Mountain Huts

  • It’s important to make reservations for overnight stays at least 1-2 weeks in advance. Note: if you’re staying in a mountain hut during the weekend, you should book earlier.
  • The most reliable way to make reservations is by calling the hut directly. Email response rate is 50%.
  • You can choose between sleeping in a shared-dormitory, or a private room.

Here are the contact numbers of the mountain huts mentioned in this guide:

Become a member of an Alpine Club

  • You’ll get a significant discount on your overnight stay, if you present your alpine club membership card. There are tons of alpine clubs throughout Europe, so just confirm with the hut owner whether your alpine club is accepted.
  • If you don’t have a Alpine Club membership, you can apply for the Alpine Association of Slovenia. Processing may take a few weeks.
  • We’re members of the Österreichischen Alpenverein (Austrian Alpine Club), and so we receive discounts on all mountain huts that have contracts with the Austrian Alpine Club. We received a discount in every hut in Slovenia.

Buy a Hiking Map

  • When planning a trek through the Slovenian Alps, a hiking map is essential.
  • Via Ferrata trails are typically denoted by dotted lines. Routes that are difficult are denoted in broken lines.
  • We recommend Sidarta’s Triglav 1:25 000 Map for this specific trek in the Julian Alps.

Bring enough Cash and Budget for 50 EUR per person per day

Note: budget an additional 15 EUR per day if you don’t have an alpine club membership card.

  • Tourist Tax: 1.27 EUR per person per night
  • Dormitory Mattress: ~11.70 – 18.20 EUR. With Alpine Club Discount: 9-14 EUR per person.
  • Private room (2-bedroom): ~14.30 – 24.50 EUR. With Alpine Club Discount: 11 – 18.90 EUR per person.
  • Breakfast: 5 EUR
  • Coffee: 2 – 2.60 EUR
  • Dinner Meal: 6-10 EUR
  • Soup: 5 EUR
  • Beer & Wine: 3-4 EUR
  • 1.5 L Water Bottle: 2.50 – 4 EUR
  • Appliance Charging (phone, camera batteries): Free

Learn these Slovenian Words

  • dober dan – hello
  • hvala – thank you
  • dom, koča – mountain hut
  • gora – mountain
  • vhr – summit
  • greben – ridge
  • jezero – lake
  • planina – open pasture, alp
  • sedlo – saddle
  • dolina – valley
  • slap – waterfall

Follow the Knafelc Waymark

All trails are marked with the Knafelc Waymark, which is a red circle with a white center. Trail markings are generally well-maintained and easy to follow.

Slovenia Travel Guide | Moon & Honey Travel

Day 1 - Triglav National Park Trek

Stage 1 of this trek is optional. Because stage 2 requires an early start, we decided to sleep at the mountain hut Poštarski dom na Vršiču, which is located directly on the trail. It was nice to have a leisurely first day. It’s also significantly cheaper to stay in a mountain hut, as opposed to a hostel or hotel. If you’re looking for a place to stay in Kranjska Gora, we had a good experience at Youth Hostel Nika (excellent breakfast).  

Getting to Vršič Mountain Pass

  • There’s a bus that departs several times a day from Kranjska Gora to Vršič Pass. The same bus continues to Trenta and Soča Valley.
  • Use the AlpeTour website to find out what the bus schedule is. As of 2018, a one-way ticket to the pass costs 3 EUR.
  • The road to Vršič Pass is know as the Russian Road (Ruska cesta), because it was built by Russian prisoners of war during the first World War. 

Stage 1: Vršič Pass (1611 m) – Slemenova Špica (1909 m) – Poštarski dom na Vršiču (1688 m)

  • Before settling into the mountain hut for the night, we decided to do a small hike to the lookout-point Slemenova Špica.
  • The trail to Slemenova Špica is located at the pass. To find the trail, you may need to follow the footpath parallel to the road in the direction of Kranjska Gora for 1 minute. You’ll see a red signpost indicating the trail to Sleme (Slemenova Špica).
  • Slemenova Špica is a grassy hill set amidst the dramatic Julian Alps. It’s a popular day hike destination suitable for families, so you’ll see more people on this trail than the other stages of this trek.
  • It takes 1.5 hours to reach Slemenova Špica. After 30 minutes, you’ll reach the saddle Vratica (1799 m), where the trail splits. To hike to Sleme, you’ll go right (45 minutes). The hike to Mount Mojstrovka along Hanzova pot (2 hours) steers left.
  • After another ~ 30 minutes, you’ll reach a junction. You’ll see a path to the right signed Grlo that heads to the Tamar mountain hut. Stay to the left.
  • Keep your eyes peeled for another trail intersection. You’ll want to head right. If you continue on the main trail, you’ll end up at the Slatnica saddle.
  • After a few minutes, you’ll reach the grassy meadow of Slemenova Špic. With mountain views in every direction, this lovely hill is ideal for a picnic and snooze.
  • To return to Vršič Pass, follow the same trail back. Once you reach the pass, cross the street and walk towards the hut Tičarjev dom. From Tičarjev lodge, follow the gravel road for 10 minutes to Poštarski dom na Vršiču.

Slemenova Špic Hike, Triglav National Park Trek, Julian Alps, Slovenia | Moon & Honey Travel

Stay in Poštarski dom na Vršiču

  • Showers available: 4 EUR for 4 minutes (take advantage of it).
  • Private and shared rooms available.
  • Good food.
  • Outdoor and indoor dining areas.

Poštarski dom na Vršiču, Hiking Hut-to-Hut in the Julian Alps, Slovenia | Moon & Honey Travel

Kriških podih alpine plateau, Julian Alps, Slovenia | Moon & Honey Travel

Day 2 - Triglav National Park Trek

The hike today follows the Slovenian Mountain Trail (marked with the number 1). There are several ways to reach today’s destination, Kriških podih. We opted for the easiest route, which circumvented Mount Prisank. If you’re a confident alpine hiker with lots of via ferrata experience, you could hike up and over Prisank on your way to sedlo Planja. We recommend consulting a hiking map to see what your options are.  

Stage 2: Poštarski dom na Vršiču (1688 m) – Na robu – Zadnje Plate – Sedlo Planja (2349) – Pogačnikov dom na Kriških podih (2050 m)

  • The hike today takes 6-7 hours.
  • From the mountain hut, head to the Pagan Girl Rock lookout point, marked by an info-board. Here, you’ll find the turn-off to Prisank.
  • After passing through dwarf pine, the first segment of trail is initially very rocky.
  • At Na Robu, the trail forks. You should head down and right. We somehow missed the trail and continued in the direction of Grintovci. Luckily, there’s a route labeled in red paint “Mlinarica” that connects to the trail we should have been on. However, it’s really easy to miss, as the trail marker is close to the ground. This trail is very poorly maintained and hard to follow. So, don’t miss the turn-off around Na robu like us.
  • The trail follows just above, or just below the bushline for a long time. Eventually, you’ll reach a grassy open meadow framed by peaks. Take a break here.
  • The trail traverses the meadow and then steadily climbs. You’ll reach an intersection, where the trail leads left to Prisank and right to Razor. Head towards Razor.
  • The climb to Sedlo Planja, the mountain saddle between Razor and Planja, is challenging. We got caught in a thunderstorm as we were approaching the pass, which made this segment more difficult. Note: we recommend wearing a helmet for this part of the trail.
  • At the Planja saddle, you can hike to the summit of Razor and/or Planja. Or, you can simply enjoy your first glimpse of Mount Triglav and start the descent to Kriških podih. 
  • The trail is assisted by some steel cables and ropes. Be extra careful on the descent, because you’ll be hiking down scree and loose rocky terrain.
  • After about 1-1.5 hours, the trail finally flattens out. As we hiked towards the Pogačnikov dom na Kriških podih, we saw two amazing things. First, we saw an ibex, and then the most beloved flower of the Alps, edelweiss. The trail makes a final, but short, ascent to the mountain hut.

Sp. Kriško jezero, Kriških podih alpine plateau, Julian Alps, Slovenia | Moon & Honey Travel

Stay in Pogačnikov dom na Kriških podih

  • This hut is positioned high above the Trenta Valley and surrounded by peaks and three alpine lakes. There’s nothing like lounging in a chair outside this hut with a Radler. As we soaked up the late afternoon sun, a few sheep visited us and used our table to scratch their backs (see photo below).
  • From the hut, you can take a short hike to the lake: Sp. Kriško jezero (1880 m). To reach the lake, take the trail in the direction of Trenta.
  • Pogačnikov dom only offers shared rooms. The prices vary based on how many people are in your room. If you sleep in the dormitory-loft (cabine), you’ll pay 9 EUR (with discount). If you sleep in a 4-bed room, you’ll pay ~18 EUR (with discount). 

Pogačnikov dom na Kriških podih, Triglav National Park, Julian Alps, Slovenia | Moon & Honey Travel

Triglav National Park Trek, Julian Alps, Slovenia | Moon & Honey Travel

Day 3 - Triglav National Park Trek

Day 3 is phenomenal. After climbing over the mountain Bovški Gamsovec, you’re met with heart-melting views of Triglav. In July, the trail was surrounded by color. There were so many wildflowers to admire, it was hard to keep a consistent pace.

Stage 3: Pogačnikov dom na Kriških podih (2050 m) – Bovški Gamsovec (2391 m) – Luknja (1756 m) – Koča na Doliču (2151 m)

  • Stage 3 takes 6 hours.
  • The hike begins gently, crosses slabs of limestone and ascends to the mountain Bovški Gamsovec.
  • It takes about 1 hour to reach the Bovški Gamsovec ridge. There are assisted ropes and cables to aid your ascent. To reach the summit, you can take a short detour via a protected climbing route.
  • Otherwise, the path continues over the ridge. Here, you’ll see the incredible northern wall of Triglav.
  • The descent is gentle as you hike through beautiful wildflowers and grassy slopes. You’re heading to the mountain pass Luknja. We saw ibex on this part of the trail.
  • As you near Luknja, you might see people climbing up to Triglav via the Plemenice trail. It’s impressive!
  • At Luknja, you’ll go right and hike down a windy path.
  • The trail eventually divides and you’ll want to take the trail to the left along pod steno. This part of the hike is uphill, but very easy. You’ll have sweeping valley views to your right. The trail then flattens out for a while.
  • The final stretch is another ascent to the mountain hut Koča na Doliču.

Triglav North Wall, Triglav National Park Trek, Julian Alps, Slovenia | Moon & Honey Travel

Stay in Koča na Doliču

  • This mountain hut is popular, due to its proximity to Triglav. Most of the hikers we met, were planning on summiting Triglav the next morning – which might be something you want to do. If so, you definitely need to bring a via ferrata kit as well as light backpack to carry water and snacks. All the hikers left their heavy trekking packs at the hut and retrieved their stuff after their Triglav hike.
  • This hut has a great location, but there are some downsides. There’s no running water. The toilet facilities are pretty gross (squat toilet). You can only check in at 4:00 p.m., or later. If you arrive after 5:00 p.m., you need to notify them before. The food was okay, but the portions were meager. And, if you opt for their half-board rate (which includes breakfast and dinner), the breakfast includes white coffee, which is a wheat-based coffee with milk, not real coffee. If you want real coffee, you have to pay more. Other than that, it was clean and comfortable.

Triglav National Park Trek, Julian Alps, Slovenia | Moon & Honey Travel

Koča pri Triglavskih jezerih, Triglav National Park, Seven Lakes Valley, Slovenia- 7 Amazing Hikes in Slovenia you've never heard of | Moon & Honey Travel

Day 4 - Triglav National Park

Today, you’ll venture into the Seven Lakes Valley, one of Slovenia’s most beautiful landscapes. The hike begins with summiting a mountain. You’ll have an opportunity to take a break at the perfectly situated mountain hut Zasavska koča na Prehodavcih, before starting the slow descent through the lake-dotted valley.

Stage 4: Koča na Doliču (2151 m) – Kanjavec (2568 m) – Zasavska koča na Prehodavcih (2071 m) – Koča pri Triglavskih jezerih (1685 m)

  • We hiked to Seven Lakes Valley via the mountain Kanjavec. If you’re looking at a map, you’ll notice that there are at least two other options. According to the hut staff at Koča na Doliču, the trail via Skozi rizo shouldn’t even be on the map, as it’s not a secure, or safe route. The other option is to go via Dolič (2164 m) and Hribarice (2358 m), which is the most popular route (and perhaps the best route).
  • The hike to the Kanjavec summit takes about 1.5 hours. The trail is very manageable. However, there’s a 5 meter via ferrata (klettersteig) section shorting before the summit, which was challenging.
  • As you ascend, you’ll see Triglav once again. You’re surrounded by limestone mountains and it’s a treat to hike up here in the morning. You’ll likely have the whole mountain all to yourself.
  • After reaching the summit, the trail dives down over scree slopes. It feels really desolate on this side. When we hiked here in summer 2018, the trail markings were fading. We needed to use Maps.me to make sure we were going the right way.
  • This rocky terrain carried on until Zasavska koča na Prehodavcih. We took a detour to visit this mountain hut, because we had sufficient time and wanted to rest. On the way to the hut, you’ll see the lake Rjavo jezero (2006 m).
  • To get back on the trail towards Koča pri Triglavskih jezerih (Seven Lakes Valley Lodge), simply follow the signs. The path is well-marked.
  • The first gem you’ll pass is Zeleno jezero (1988 m), a emerald-colored lake with limestone boulders and a picturesque backdrop.
  • The second lake you’ll hike by is Veliko jezero Ledvicka (1831 m). When illuminated by the sun, it glows with beautiful tones of teal and royal blue.
  • As you lose elevation, the plants will be higher and you’ll start to hike through forest.
  • You’ll pass one more lake before reaching the hut.

Hiking to the summit of Kanjavec, Julian Alps, Triglav National Park, Slovenia | Moon & Honey Travel

Stay in Koča pri Triglavskih jezerih

  • The Seven Lakes Valley Hut is a stunner. Surrounded by crystal-clear lakes, it’s what hiking dreams are made of. One of the most spellbinding sites of this whole trek is seeing the mountains reflected in the waters of Dvojno jezero. 
  • The hut has running water and showers. It costs 4 EUR for a 3 minute shower.
  • There are both private rooms and shared bedrooms available. This is a popular destination, so definitely book in advance.

Zeleno jezero, Seven Lakes Valley, Triglav National Park Trek, Julian Alps, Slovenia | Moon & Honey Travel

Koča na Planini pri Jezeru, Triglav National Park Trek, Julian Alps, Slovenia | Moon & Honey Travel

Day 5 - Triglav National Park

Today, you’ll leave the high mountains and hike through alpine pastures and forests. Days 1 through 4 were filled with dramatic alpine landscapes. Day 5 is full of romantic scenes of rustic huts and grazing dairy cows.

Stage 5: Koča pri Triglavskih jezerih (1685 m) – Štapce (1851) – Bregarjevo zavetišče na planini Viševnik (1620 m) – Koča na Planini pri Jezeru – Kosijev dom na Vogarj – Lake Bohinj

  • From the Seven Lakes Valley Hut, you’ll leave the valley and ascend to the mountain ridge Štapce.
  • After hiking over Štapce, you’ll hike a gentle path through dwarf pines.
  • Follow signs to planini Viševnik.
  • You’ll cross a small alpine pasture with several huts called Ovčarija, before reaching Bregarjevo zavetišče na planini Viševnik (Bregarjevo Shelter on Plateau Viševnik). Bregarjevo used to be a cheese factory. In 1981, the old farm was transformed into the shelter which offers overnight stays. It’s open from early June until the end of September.
  • Bregarjevo zavetišče is a charming place to relax and enjoy a refreshment.
  • The trail continues to the mountain hut Koča na Planini pri Jezeru, which is situated above a lake and surrounded by tiny wooden huts. This is an ideal place for lunch. They serve traditional Slovenian stews and soups.
  • From here, follow signs to Planina Vogar, signed 1.5 hours.
  • The trail is wide. After about 70-80 minutes, the trail joins a paved road for about 10 minutes. Follow the paved road until you see signs and a dirt road veering left and leading in the direction of Vogar. You’ll pass by several huts and lodgings before reaching Kosijev dom.
  • At Kosijev dom, take a short 3 minute detour to a Lake Bohinj lookout point.

Triglav National Park Trek, Julian Alps, Slovenia | Moon & Honey Travel

Stay in Stara Fužina, or Ribčev Laz

  • If you’re ready to finish the hike today, you can walk directly to both Stara Fužina, or Ribčev Laz – two villages close to Lake Bohinj.
  • We decided to stay in the mountain hut, Kosijev dom na Vogarj, and hike the final hour to Lake Bohinj the next morning. After enjoying a well-reserved dip in the crystal-clear waters of Bohinj, we ate lunch in Ribčev Laz and took a bus to Ljubljana.

Bregarjevo zavetišče na planini Viševnik, Julian Alps, Triglav National Park | Moon & Honey Travel

Lake Bohinj, View from Vogar, Traversing Triglav National Park | Moon & Honey Travel

Slovenian Alps Packing List

Pack your Passport, Sleeping Bag Liner, Polarized Sunglasses and…

Passport. It’s required by law that lodging providers (hotels, guesthouses, mountain huts, etc…) in Slovenia officially register your personal details. You’ll need to present your passport in every hut.

Sleeping Bag Liner. Each hut provides sheets, blankets and pillows, but you need to bring a sleeping bag liner.

Polarized Sunglasses. It’s critical to buy polarized glasses that wrap around your head. The limestone reflects light like snow.

Via Ferrata Kit. Helmet, harness and energy absorbing lanyard. Buy full kit here.

2 x 1-Liter Reusable Water Bottle. We both carried 2 water bottles each. You can refill your reusable water bottles at the mountain huts, but there’s no source of water between the huts.

Hiking Pants. When buying hiking pants, we think flexibility and ability to shed water are two important criteria. We both bought two pairs of these Macpac Women’s Hike Tight Pants and we love them. They’re breathable and extremely comfortable in all types of weather. Bonus: you don’t need to wear a belt.

Hiking Boots. If you want to invest in a serious hiking boot that will serve you well in rocky, high alpine terrain, look into buying a pair of Hanwag Tatra Light Lady GTX. These shoes have an extraordinary profile and aren’t rigid like traditional alpine boots.

Merino Wool Hiking Socks. Icebreaker makes the best hiking socks out there. Socks have lifetime warranty.

Sleeping Pants + Shirt

Hiking Poles. Opt for poles with lever locks (flick lock mechanism), as opposed to twisting locks. They’re more durable.

Hiking Backpack + Raincover. Ideal trekking backpack: Osprey Packs Women’s Kyte 46 Backpack.

Sun Hat 

Rain Jacket. There’s always a chance of rain in the Alps. It’s essential to always carry a proper rain jacket. Kati’s North Face Venture Rain Jacket is excellent quality and truly waterproof.

Down Vest or Hiking Vest. Everyone has different preferences, but when it comes to keeping your core warm on the trail, but not overheating, vests are your best friend. Sabrina never hikes without her Eddie Bauer StormDown Vest.

Fleece (one for hiking, one for sleeping). It’s always good to have a fleece with you for added warmth. Fleece sweaters are lightweight and dry quickly. Buy a Marmot Norhiem Women’s Sweater Knit Fleece Jacket on Amazon.

Long-sleeve and Short-sleeve quick-dry hiking shirts

Waterproof House Slippers (something you can also shower in). After a day of hiking, it’s so enjoyable to finally take of your boots and slip on a pair of Crocs.

Cash. Credit cards are not accepted in all the mountain huts.

Basic Cosmetics. Soap, Shampoo, Toothbrush, Toothpaste, Sun-lotion, Deodorant, Chapstick, Nail Clippers.

Travel Towel. Opt for a thin, microfiber towel that dries quickly.

Ear Plugs. We always carry several pairs of ear plugs with us when we’re overnighting in mountain huts.

Julian Alps Resources

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Multi-Day Hike across Triglav National Park, Julian Alps Hiking Itinerary, Slovenia | Moon & Honey Travel
Moon & Honey Travel Resources
External Resources
  • The Julian Alps of Slovenia: Mountain Walks and Short Treks (Cicerone Walking Guide)
  • hribi.net: resource for all mountain huts, peaks, connections in Slovenia. The site needs a redesign, but it’s a reliable source of information for all things hiking and mountaineering in the Slovenian Alps. You can find specific destinations and trails in the Julian Alps here.
  • Info on Trail Closures: map indicating what trails are closed is maintained by the Alpine Association of Slovenia.
  • Long Distance Trails in Slovenia: Via Alpina, Alpe Adria Trail, Slovenian Mountain Trail, Walk of Peace, E7, E6, etc…

There are some affiliate links in this itinerary. If you make a booking or a purchase using the links, we’ll get a small commission at no extra cost to you. It’s how we cover the costs of running the blog!

@moonhoneytravelers
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Wine tastings at Çobo Winery are accompanied by bread, homemade olives, and several cheeses. In so many places, wine tastings are rushed. Not here. Seated under an olive tree, you’re invited to slowly sip Shesh i Bardhë, E bardha e Beratit (puls grape), Shesh i zi, Kashmer (blend), and a special Reserve (2012) that will intoxicate your soul. #winedestinations
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