Iceland Travel Guide | Moon & Honey Travel


Iceland Travel Guide

Last Updated: March 2018

Iceland feels like the end and the beginning of the world. With boiling mud, floating ice and geothermal steam, Iceland’s active landscapes are a reminder of how natural forces contoured our world. Everywhere you go in Iceland, you feel happily insignificant, yet deeply connected to the vast landscape. As we drove around the ring road, we were mesmerized by the contrasts in the landscape’s color, texture, and height. Snow-capped mountain ranges majestically frame tiny colorful fishing villages. Treeless black mountains seem to plunge into golden farmland. Moss-covered lava fields are dotted with statuesque horses. Iceland is a place that defies all easy definitions. But, in one word, it’s magic.


This Guide Includes:

  • When to visit Iceland – regions, activities, budget considerations
  • Iceland Basics – currency, payment culture, tipping etiquette
  • Where to Go (Use Interactive Map)
  • What to Experience in Iceland unique things to do and see
  • What to Eat & Drink in Iceland
  • Where to Stay in Iceland 
  • Driving in Iceland – tips and useful websites
  • How to save money in Iceland 
  • 15 Day Iceland Itinerary
Krýsuvík / Seltún Geothermal Area, Iceland | Moon & Honey Travel

When to Visit Iceland

When deciding what time of year to visit, consider where you want to go, what you want to experience and your budget. 


Where do you want to go

There are certain places in Iceland that are only accessible in summer, or weather permitting. 

  • The Interior (also called the Highlands). If you want to explore the Interior, plan on going to Iceland in the summer: (Late June), July, August, (September). 
    • Landmannalaugar in the Fjallabak Nature Reserve: views of Ryolite mountains, geothermal baths and Brennisteinsalda volcano.
    • Laugavegur hiking trail, 55 km trek from Landmannalaugar to Thórsmörk (Þórsmörk in Icelandic)
    • Thórsmörk (Þórsmörk in Icelandic), hiking destination in the Highlands
    • Kerlingarfjöll Mountain Range
    • Hveradalir (valley of the hot springs), geothermal area
    • Note: While it’s not possible for you to drive into the interior with your rental car, you could still reach the interior with a Super Jeep Tour. We inquired about these tours, but opted out, because of the cost.
  • The Westfjords (Vestmannaeyjar in Icelandic). You can access this region in winter, but depending on the weather conditions, some roads are inaccessible. Also, some roads are simply not serviced in winter. A few tips:
    • You can’t drive to Dynjandi waterfall or between Ísafjörður and Patreksfjörður in winter.
    • You can’t hike Hornstrandir Nature Reserve, the uninhabited northernmost region of the Westfjords, in winter, spring, or fall. The only realistic time to come here is mid-June to end of July.
    • Personal experience. We booked a night in Ísafjörður (mid-April), but couldn’t get there, because of the road conditions. A week before, however, it would have been no problem (so it just depends on the weather).
  • Westman Islands. The Landeyjahöfn ferry connects the mainland to the Westman Islands (mainly between mid-May and mid-September). But on days when the weather conditions are bad (mainly in winter), the ferry doesn’t operate. If the Landeyjahöfn ferry doesn’t operate, there might be one from Þorlákshöfn (Thorlakshofn). So realistically, the best time to see the Westman Islands is in summer. For more details on how to get to the Islands, check out the Visit the Westman Islands Website. 


What do you want to experience

  • Driving the Ring Road might be possible all year long, but it’s not advisable in winter. In the winter, roads can be impassable. Even when we drove the Ring Road in April, we experienced less than favorable road conditions: icy roads, low visibility, potholes a plenty. We drove sometimes for hours without being able to see a thing (just endless white).
  • Northern Lights can be visible between mid-September and mid-April. Your ability to see them will depend on cloud coverage, solar activity and light pollution. When we visited in April, we met people who saw them. We didn’t, mostly because of cloud coverage and because we were to lazy to wake up at 3:00 a.m. when it most promising.  
  • Puffin Sightseeing (Late Spring – Summer) – Atlantic Puffins are seabirds that spend most of their lives at sea, but return to land to breed during spring and summer. It’s possible to see them between early April and early September. If you really want to see them, it’s a safer bet to come between May and August. We didn’t see them in mid-April (because it was a long winter).
  • Visiting Ice Caves is a winter activity (November – March).
  • Hiking the Interior is a summer activity (mid-June to early September)
  • Touring Fjallsárlón or Jökulsárlón (Glacier Lagoons) on a boat is a summer activity (usually mid-May to mid-September). You can definitely visit the lagoons outside those months, but there will be no tours in operation.


What’s your budget

  • Iceland’s high season is mid-June through August, and not surprisingly the most expensive time to visit.
  • When we traveled in April, we paid no more than 80 EUR per night for accommodation. We saw that some of the guesthouses we stayed in increased their prices by 400% for the high season (ouch!).
Eldhraun, Iceland | Moon & Honey Travel

Iceland Basics

Official Name: Ísland

Capital: Reykjavík

Government: Constitutional Republic

Regions: Iceland has 8 administrative regions.

(1) Eastern Region, Eastfjords (Austurland, Austfirðir); (2) Capital Region (Höfuðborgarsvæði); (3) Northeastern Region (Norðurland eystra); (4) Northwestern Region (Norðurland vestra); (5) Southern Region (Suðurland), (6) Southern Peninsula (Suðurnes), (7) Westfjords (Vestfirðir), (8) Western Region (Vesturland).

Population: 331,778

Language: Icelandic. English is spoken fluently by the majority of Icelanders.

Currency: ISK – Icelandic Krona. You can pay everything with a credit card. There’s no need to pull out cash.

Tipping Etiquette: No need to tip. Service and VAT are included in prices.

Water Quality: Excellent. You can drink the tap water everywhere in Iceland. Sometimes the water has a slight sulphuric smell, but it’s absolutely safe to drink.

Something Interesting: Icelanders don’t have surnames or family names. Instead, they use the traditional Nordic naming system to create last names. A child’s last name is created by using the first name of their father (or mother) plus -dóttir (daughter) or -son.

Icelandic Horses, Iceland | Moon & Honey Travel

Where to Go in Iceland

Click the dots to explore specific destinations. You can expand the map by clicking the icon on the top right corner. The map is best viewed on a desktop.
  • Golden Circle
  • Southern Iceland
  • East Fjords
  • Northern Iceland
  • Westfjords
  • Snæfellsnes Peninsula / Western Iceland
  • Reykjanes Peninsula

Árinni kennir illur ræðari.





Icelandic Saying

A bad rower blames his oars.

What to Experience in Iceland

Our favorite things to see and do
Hverir, Iceland | Moon & Honey Travel

Watching the Earth Boil and Steam

Hverir [Northern Iceland]

You will smell Hverir (also called Námafjall geothermal field) before you see it. This red, blue and white bubbling paradise is the stinkiest, yet one of the most splendid places in Iceland. Hverir is a geothermal area located in Northern Iceland close to Lake Myvatn. As you breath in the sulfur-rich air, you’ll find yourself mesmerized by the steam and boiling mud.

Krýsuvík / Seltún [Reykjanes peninsula]

Krýsuvík is a geothermal area that you can visit either to, or from the Keflavik Airport. The landscape is alive with steaming volcanic vents and boiling hot springs. A boardwalk guides you gently though this hissing field in a circular path.

Gunnuhver [Reykjanes peninsula]

The mud pools and steam vents in this geothermal field are named after a female ghost. Iceland’s largest mud pool can be found here. The gases emitted from the ground turn the surrounding lava rock into clay.

Eldhraun, Iceland Travel Guide | Moon & Honey Travel

Driving through Eldhraun

Eldhraun is a massive moss lava field in Southern Iceland. If you’re driving the Ring Road, you’ll drive right through it, between Laufskálavarða and Fjaðrárgljúfur canyon. This lava landscape was one of the most striking places we experienced in Iceland. It looks like an endless pile of giant river stones covered in green carpet. The wooly fringe moss can be as thick as 50 centimeters (19.7 inches) in some places.

This unique landscape is the result of an eruption that lasted from 1783 and 1784, known as the Laki Eruption (Skaftareldar). The devastating eruption led to disease, crop failure and other catastrophes in Iceland. It’s believed that the eruption affected mainland Europe as well. During the eruption about 120 million tons of sulphur compounds were released into the air. The sulphur compounds mixed with the moisture in the atmosphere, resulting in sulphuric acid. The volcanic gas mist and ash fall resulted in withered vegetation, poisoned fields and polluted groundwater. Between 1783 and 1785, Iceland’s population was reduced to a fifth and half of the country’s livestock perished. The mist traveled to Europe and as far as Asia, resulting in dramatic weather changes and air pollution. The calamities that ensued are called the Mist Hardships.

When you Visit:

  • There is a parking lot with official signage on the right side of the road (driving East).
  • The moss is very sensitive, so only use designated trails and roads when exploring.
Fjallsárlón, Iceland | Moon & Honey Travel

Visiting a Glacier Lagoon

No matter how short your trip is, don’t leave without seeing the frozen landscape of Fjallsárlón and Jökulsárlón. These glacial lagoons are the crown jewels of Iceland. We spent hours watching fragmented glaciers float and seals swim around the icebergs. In the early evening, the silence was only broken by the melting of ice and the peculiar sound of eider ducks.

  • When to Visit: Late Spring, Summer, Fall. In Summer, more ice is melting due to the heat and hence floating out to sea.
  • Fjallsárlón and Jökulsárlón are located in Southern Iceland. It takes 10 minutes by car to drive between them.
  • In the summer season (May – October),  boat tours are offered at Jökulsárlón. Because we visited in April, we weren’t able to do this. In preparing for our trip, we read that Zodiac tours are the best way to go.
Hafnarfjordur Fish Racks, Iceland | Moon & Honey Travel
Hafnarfjordur Fish Racks

Watching Fish Dry in the Arctic Wind

The oldest food preservation method in the world is still being used in Iceland. That method is the drying of food in the open air. Icelanders gut and hang unsalted fish on wooden drying racks. The cold winter air dries the fish (usually cod or haddock), which results in a storage life of several years. Seeing fish heads swinging in the wind is chilling yet somehow hypnotizing. Its reminds you of how so much has changed, and yet so much has stayed the same.

Interestingly, Icelanders aren’t the main consumers of stockfish. They have been exporting it on a large scale since the 13th century. Can you guess who the main consumers are today? Italy and Nigeria. Nigeria is actually the largest market for dried fish products in the word. They use fish heads in their soups and stews.

If you want to see rows and rows of drying racks, prepare yourself for the stench and go to:

  • Sauðárkrókur (Northern Iceland) – In this town’s harbor there’s a collection of dried fish racks.
  • Hafnarfjordur (Reykjanes Peninsula) – If you’re driving south on the 42, the fish racks are on the left side of the road before the 417 juncture. GPS: 64°01’04.7″N 21°56’52.2″W
Grettislaug, Iceland Hot Pot | Moon & Honey Travel

Soaking in a Hot Pot

The best way to warm up when the temperature is flirting with zero degrees is by jumping into a hot pot. Hot pots are warm natural baths. Some thermal baths are maintained regularly and charge a fee. These tend to be better, as they are both cleaner and hotter. Keep in mind that there may, or may not be a changing area. And because these are natural hot springs, there will be some algae.

Our favorite hot spring pool was Grettislaug. Located off the pothole-happy 748 road north of Skagafjörður, Grettislaug isn’t easy to get to. You’ll need a 4WD and some patience. When we arrived, conditions were not perfect. It was bitterly cold and so windy that I (Sabrina) could barely open the car door. But, since we drove 45 minutes to get there, we were determined to get in. So we ran as fast as we could from the changing cabin to the hot spring in our bathing suits and beanies. And, oh my, was it worth it. The hot pools (there are two) hover at a glorious temperature of 43 °C. As you soak in the heat, you’ll see a bewitching mountain backdrop, turf houses, and horses. 

To locate a hot pot on your trip, use this website. We did notice that it’s a bit out-of-date, so fact-check the information before starting your drive.

Diamond Beach, Iceland | Moon & Honey Travel
Diamond Beach

Walking through Sculpted Ice at Diamond Beach

As icebergs melt and break off in the Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon, the broken pieces float out to sea with the tide. At Diamond Beach, you’ll see the ice float and land at the black sand beach. These icebergs look like sculptures, each uniquely and majestically sculpted by the ocean water.

Iceland Travel Guide | Moon & Honey Travel

What to Eat & Drink in Iceland

Icelandic Food


Geysir Bread (Geothermal rye bread) – Icelanders use geothermal energy to generate electricity, heat their homes and keep pavements snow-free. They also use geothermal energy to bake bread in the ground. This earth-baked bread is the best bread we’ve ever tasted. It’s moist, sweet, and delicious. We recommend eating geothermal bread at Laugarvatn Fontana Hot Springs (if you do the Golden Circle route) or Kaffi Borgir (if you explore Dimmuborgir and Lake Myvatn).


Harðifiskur – wind-dried haddock or cod. This popular snack can be purchased at any grocery store.


Icelandic Lamb – During the summer months, Icelandic sheep roam the countryside freely. They eat fresh herbs and plants and are never fed grain or given hormones. The meat has a distinct herbaceous taste.


Icelandic Drinks


Einstök Ölgerð Beer – we loved their Icelandic Toasted Porter made with Lager malt, Munich malt, chocolate malt, Bavarian hops, and authentic Icelandic roasted coffee.

Reynisfjara Black Sand Beach, Iceland Travel Guide | Moon & Honey Travel

Where to Stay in Iceland

You can stay in guesthouses, hotels, farms, and AirBnBs. You can also rent a campervan. Make sure to book your accommodations as early as possible, because they do fill up. To help you figure out where to stay, we’re going to share with you where we stayed. For our 16 nights, we averaged 86 USD/70 EUR per room. The lowest we paid was 66 USD/54 EUR and the highest was 135 USD/110 EUR.

Keflavík (Airport)

  • Airport Hotel Aurora Star. Stay here if you need to be close to the airport. We arrived in Iceland at midnight, so this was our only option. The hotel rooms are nice, but you’re paying for its proximity (walking distance) to the airport

Hveragerði (Southern Iceland, near the Golden Circle)

  • Hjardarból Guesthouse. Modest, but cozy and clean farm guesthouse. The guesthouse is surrounded by farmland. We stayed here after driving the Golden Circle Route.
  • Guesthouse Frost and Fire. This restaurant and guesthouse overlooks a river and is nestled between active geothermal hills. The restaurant’s solarium-style dining room allows you to appreciate the steaming natural landscape. We came here for dinner, but we would have loved to have stayed here too.
  • Both accommodations are close to the Reykjadalur Hot Spring Thermal River trailhead.

Eyvindarhólar (Southern Iceland, near Skogar)

  • Welcome Edinborg. Small, cozy and rustic rooms. The highlight of staying here is the surrounding scenery. The guesthouse is close to the Eyjafjallajökull Erupts museum, Rutshellir Caves, Skógafoss, and the open-air folk museum Musée de Skógar.

Vík (Southern Iceland, near Reynisfjara Black Sand Beach)

  • Guesthouse Carina. Beautiful rooms, delicious breakfast and communal bathrooms. We loved staying here. The location was perfect and the breakfast was memorable. The guesthouse is located directly in the town of Vík and very close to the beach.

Borgarhöfn (Southern Iceland, near Jökulsárlón and Diamond Beach) 

  • Lækjarhus Farm Holidays. Small and comfortable rooms. You have access to a kitchen and dining area. This guesthouse is located on a farm. One of our most memorable mornings in Iceland was exploring around the farmhouse. 

Egilsstadir (East Iceland)

  • Lyngás Guesthouse. Comfortable, clean and “spacious” rooms. You have access to a communal kitchen and dining space. Egilsstaðir (Egilsstadir) is a good base before (or after) exploring the East Fjords.

Lake Mývatn (Northern Iceland)

  • Eldá Guesthouse. Simple, utilitarian guesthouse with communal kitchen. The location was great for exploring around the lake. The guesthouse is close the geothermal area Hverir, the Mývatn Nature Baths and Grjótagjá cave.
  • Vogafjos Guesthouse (aka Cowshed). We ate three meals here. It’s warm, rustic and charming. If the food is any indication of the guesthouse itself, then this is probably a really nice place to stay.

Blönduós (Northern Iceland)

  • Hotel Húni. Clean, budget hotel. During winter the hotel building is a elementary school with 53 students. The hotel is located near Hvítserkur. 

Staðarhólskirkja (Base of the Westfjords)

  • Hotel Ljósaland. This hotel and restaurant is delightful. The room was beautiful and comfortable. Moreover, the owner is very kind and helpful. He’ll help you plan out your next steps and make sure you’re having a good time. 

Snæfellsnes Peninsula

  • We stayed in an AirBnB. If you don’t have an AirBnB account, use this link to get a discount on your first booking.

On our Wish List

  • Ion Adventure Hotel (Golden Circle). Remote, modern design and surrounded by beautiful scenery. This hotel is located near the Golden Circle Route and features a restaurant, bar and lava spa.
  • Fosshótel Vatnajökull (Southeast Iceland). Glacier views, comfortable rooms, and excellent breakfast. This hotel is located near the Ring Road close to Höfn.
Iceland Travel Guide | Moon & Honey Travel

Driving in Iceland


Rent a 4WD

This is a necessity. It costs more (we know), but from our experience it was often essential in getting us from Point A to Point B. Iceland’s weather is so unpredictable. You’ll need a car that can handle extreme weather and pothole a plenty gravel roads.


Check the Road Conditions every Morning 

Use to find out what the road conditions are every morning before you begin your drive. After selecting a region, you’ll see a map of all the roads in the selected region. Each road is highlighted with its current condition: green (easily passable), orange (spots of ice), light blue (slippery), dark blue (extremely slippery), white (wet snow/snow), purple (difficult driving), black (difficult condition), red (impassable), and grey (no winter service).  


Check for Warnings and Alerts every Evening and Morning

Check the website for warnings and alerts. This site will provide up-to-date information on storms, road closures, wind gusts, etc… For example, the alert below notifies travelers that strong wind gusts are expected from Seljalandsfoss to Vík and from Skaftafell to Jökulsárlón! The alert advises drivers on bigger camper vans to not travel in the area. 

Safe Travels Iceland | Moon & Honey Travel


Fill Up Your Tank Often

When there’s an opportunity to get gas, get it, because gas stations are simply not everywhere. When we drove in the East Fjords, we drove hours between fuel stations.


Plan on Needing Extra Time on the Road

We often needed more time than what Google Maps suggested. That’s because the road conditions varied. Mountain roads take longer. Gravel roads take a lot longer (especially if there are lots of potholes). And, you’ll want to take unplanned stops to admire the scenery and the animals (reindeer, horses, birds, etc…).


Slow Down When Approaching a Bridge

We recommend slowing down before approaching a bridge, because it can be difficult to assess whether it is a single-lane or a two-lane bridge from a distance. For single-lane bridges, the rule is whoever is closer to the bridge has the right-of-way.

Iceland Travel Guide | Moon & Honey Travel

How to Save Money in Iceland

Icelandic Horses, Iceland | Moon & Honey Travel

Iceland Resources

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Iceland Travel Guide | Moon & Honey Travel
Moon & Honey Travel Resources
External Resources
  • The Rough Guide to Iceland (Rough Guides)
  • I Heart Reykjavik – Iceland travel blog. Insightful content that will help you plan your Iceland road trip. They provide maps, recommendations, and itineraries that are immensely useful. They also operate tours in the capital.
  • Breath With Us Iceland Posts – This travel couple blog is detailed, helpful and thorough. They’ve traveled to Iceland several times and offer a good starting point for those that want to explore Iceland’s Interior.
  • In a Far Away Land Landmannalaugar Guide – extremely helpful guide re: hiking and driving in Landmannalaugar.
  • For the Love of Moss, Lava and Horses – Moon & Honey authored post on Dame Traveler. 
  • We’ve spent the last few days in Pokhara and have done absolutely nothing, apart from slowly hop around from smoothie joint to restaurant to coffee shop. Pokhara is a city located on Phewa Lake and a favored destination among trekkers pre- and post-trek. After a long multi-day trek, Pokhara satisfies all your cravings and indulges you with its stress-free atmosphere, clean air, cafés, and spas. We’ve really loved our time here. However, we do acknowledge, that Pokhara is probably not best destination for travelers (if you didn’t do a long trek). It caters unabashedly to tourists, with happy hour offers, hippie clothing, German bakeries, Pizzerias, and tattoo shops. So while we’ve been enjoying the comforts of this inauthentic tourist hub, we can’t help but ask “is this a good thing?”
  • We received a question about AMS and insurance as it pertains to the Annapurna Circuit. AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness) is caused by reduced air pressure and lower oxygen levels at higher altitudes. Your body can adjust and adapt to higher altitude, but it needs time. Doctors recommend that you sleep three nights around 3,500 meters before ascending further. They also recommend that above 3,500 meters, you only sleep 500 meters above where you slept the previous night. If you don’t feel well (nausea, dizziness, headaches, etc...), you’re supposed to descend to the last place you felt well. Slide right to see AMS Symptoms.  Apart from slow ascension, it’s important to avoid alcohol. In Manang, during the trekking seasons, there’s a medical facility staffed with western doctors. They conduct a free daily talk about acclimatization and how to recognize and respond to various symptoms of AMS. Definitely attend this session. In terms of our personal experience, most people we met experienced some degree of AMS - some at 2,500 meters, while others only at the pass. It’s common to take diamox (Acetazolamide) to help your body adjust to the altitude gain. Unlike ibuprofen, it doesn’t mask the symptoms of AMS, it actually prevents and reduces the symptoms. Consult your doctor about diamox usage, before you go on your trek. Re: insurance, you absolutely need it!!!!
  • Let’s talk about food on the Annapurna Circuit. The main staple food is Dal Baht, a traditional meal consisting of steamed rice, lentil soup (dal), curried vegetables, and pickles. We ate dal baht daily, sometimes twice. With free refills, it’s the best thing to eat when you’re hungry. Most menus also offer curries, momos (dumplings), fried noodles and rice, thukpa (Tibetan noodle soup) as well as pizza, pasta and various soups. There are also bakeries that serve excellent cakes, crumbles and pastries. We’re going to wrap up our Annapurna Circuit posts, so let us know if you have any questions about the trek. #dalbahtpower #dalbahtpower24hour #hikeforfood
  • Annapurna Circuit Days 22 & 23: Tatopani - Ghorepani - Hile - Nayapul. Our final days of the trek were marked by stairs, leeches, mule caravans, water buffalo and good food. Though mountain views were seldom, we saw beautiful terraced fields and hiked through verdant rainforest. The final stretch was a never-ending staircase descent that was physically and mentally taxing. When the trail intersected with the dusty road just after Hile, we opted for a Jeep to Nayapul. At Nayapul, we grabbed a local bus to Pokhara. Shortly after getting on the bus, it stopped. Our fellow bus riders explained that we’d be here for 1.5 hours, because of road construction. We chatted with a few locals, who shared their views on their government, its rampant corruption, and their personal struggles. We arrived in Pokhara at 8 pm, after an enlightening and bumpy journey.
  • Annapurna Circuit Day 21: Kalopani to Tatopani. We started hiking at 6:15 am, because we were determined to end our day in the natural hot springs of Tatopani. When we reached the town in the late afternoon, people were still recovering from a landslide. Unfortunately, a few homes and lodgings were demolished. Some trekkers even lost their belongings in the landslide. When we soaked in the warm springs, a friendly Nepali family (who were touring the region) asked us where we were from, if we could swim and whether we liked Nepal. Their 12 year old daughter was really excited to speak English and shared her career (science) and travel aspirations (visit a developed country).
  • Annapurna Circuit Days 19 & 20: Kagbeni - Marpha - Kalopani. Most of the trail followed the riverbed Of Kali Gandaki. The wind picked up with a vengeance and funneled down the valley, making this part of the trek dusty and miserable. We understood why most people opted for a jeep or bus to their next destination. After lunch in Jomsom, we walked another 1.5 hours to the beautiful town Marpha, where we spent the night. Each stone building is painted white and all the wooden door and window frames are painted burgundy. The streets are immaculate - barely any mule, horse and ox poo. After a night in Marpha, we headed to Kalopani. We followed the forest trail on the east side of the river almost all the way. Only a few parts of the path were washed out. Luckily, the trail was sheltered mostly from the wind. Photos of Marpha.
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