Cologne Travel Guide, Germany | Moon & Honey Travel

Cologne

Cologne Travel Guide

Cologne (Köln in German) is the fourth largest city in Germany. Situated on the Rhine, between Düsseldorf and Bonn, Köln is a destination for cathedral lovers, Karneval partakers, and river cruise passengers. During World War II, 90% of the inner city was destroyed. As you walk through Cologne, it’s very clear that the city wanted to rebuild quickly. In other words, Cologne isn’t pretty. The beauty of the city isn’t so much in the architecture, but in the people. The citizens of Cologne LOVE their city. We haven’t experienced city pride on this level anywhere else. We lived in Cologne for one year (2016/2017) and can say with much assurance, you won’t understand Cologne until you’ve experienced Karneval. Alaaf!

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Cologne Travel Guide, Germany - when to visit, what to see and do, what to eat, where to eat

Cologne City Guide Overview

  • When to Visit Cologne
  • Cologne Travel Basics
  • What to Experience in Cologne
  • Cologne’s Hidden Gems
  • What to Eat & Drink in Cologne
  • Where to Eat & Drink in Cologne
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Cologne Travel Guide, Germany | Moon & Honey Travel

When to Visit Cologne

To fully appreciate the city, we recommend planning your trip to Cologne at specific times of the year.

Fall. The colors begin to change and people begin to retreat indoors. If you can’t make it to Karneval in February, try to make it to the official start date of Karneval, November 11th. If you love wine, you could explore Cologne on your way to the Mittelrhein, Mosel, and Ahr wine regions.

 

Winter. Visit Cologne in winter, if you want to experience the city’s fabulous Christmas markets, which are open from end of November until Christmas, or to participate in Karneval festivities (official carnival days in February).

 

Spring. Cologne rebounds back to life in Spring. The Rhine is flushed with greenery and the rapeseed flower fields are in full bloom. Spring is a great time to come to the Rhineland, especially if you want to explore the Upper Middle Rhine Valley, or the Moselle Valley, without the crowds.

 

Summer. Try to plan your trip around the Kölner Lichter (Cologne Lights), which is a light festival on the Rhine that happens once a year in Summer (we loved it). There’s also an annual Pride celebration in Summer, which is one of the largest in Europe.

Cologne Travel Guide, Germany | Moon & Honey Travel

Cologne Travel Basics

State: Nordrhein-Westfallen (North Rhine-Westphalia)

Population: 1.05 Million (Cologne is the fourth largest city in Germany)

Tipping Etiquette: Round up to the nearest 1-3 Euros. Tip in Cash.

Water Quality: Cologne’s water is distinctly chalky, but absolutely safe to drink.

Getting Around:

  • Public Transit. The KVB (Kölner Verkehrsbetriebe) with it’s trains and busses tries it’s best to bring you from A to B within the city. It works, but spend enough time waiting for Cologne transit, and you’ll start to question German stereotypes.
  • Biking. The cheapest and most efficient way of getting around. There are many protected bike paths, which makes biking stress-free in Cologne. If you have time to explore via bike, definitely cycle along the Rhine.
  • River Cruises. You can hop on a river cruise and go to other cities on the Rhine (e.g. Düsseldorf).

Interesting Fact: The original Eau de Cologne is a perfume created in Cologne in 1709 by the Italian perfume maker Giovanni Maria Farina.

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Circus Roncalli ist überall unterwegs, aber in Köln ist er zu Hause.

 

Bernhard Paul

Circus Roncalli is everywhere, but in Cologne it’s at home. 

What to Experience in Cologne

Our favorite things to see and do
Rosenmontag Parade, Cologne | Moon & Honey Travel
Rosenmontag Parade, Cologne

Karneval

Karneval in Cologne isn’t just a few days, it’s a whole season. In fact, they call it the 5th Season. It begins on November 11th each year at precisely 11:11 a.m. and it doesn’t end until the midnight before Ash Wednesday.

Let’s explain the significance of the number 11. According to legend, Saint Ursula (a British princess) and her companions (ten virgins) set off on a holy pilgrimage to Rome in the fourth century. On their way back to Britain, they passed through Cologne, which was besieged by the Huns. St. Ursula and her companions refused to bow down to and copulate with the invaders (because of their faith) and were killed. Their martyrdom is marked on the Cologne Coat of Arms in the form of 11 black tears that look like apostrophes. Later, it became known that it wasn’t 11 virgins, but rather 11,000 who met their ghastly end in Cologne. The bones of these 11,000 virgins are visible in the Basilica church of St. Ursula.

Back to Karneval…During the 5th season, it’s very common to see people in costume, hear Karneval Lieder (songs), and see Karneval Corps troops gathered in public spaces. The main festivities to attend and see are:

  • Weiberfastnacht (Shrove Thursday).
  • The official parade on Rosenmontag (Carnival Monday). Parade participants are dressed spectacularly and throw out tons of candy (Kamelle) and flowers to spectators. Bring a huge bag to collect goodies, and be prepared to stand 4 hours.
  • Nubbelverbrennung – The burning of the Nubbel is the final celebration that marks the end of the carnival days in Cologne. Everywhere around the city, people gather to burn the Nubbel, a symbolic straw figure that represents all sins committed during the season. After the burning, participates links arms and sing Karneval Lieder for the last time. This is our favorite Karneval celebration.
Basilica of St. Ursula, Cologne, Germany | Moon & Honey Travel
Basilica of St. Ursula

Basilica of St. Ursula

Remember St. Ursula from the coat of arms? The remains of her 11,000 martyred companions can be seen in the Basilica. To see the chamber of relics, visit the Goldene Kammer (Golden Treasury) room within the church. The church builders found the mortal remains of the virgins in a Roman graveyard directly below the church foundation.

When we visited, the resident guide told us the story of the British-Roman princess St. Ursula. According to this guide, St. Ursula’s parents betrothed her to a pagan. She was a devout Christian and begged her parents to sever the tie. They didn’t allow it, but did grant her a wish to go on a pilgrimage to Rome. She set off with 10 virgin companions to Rome. When she arrived, she pleaded with the Pope to let her join a convent. Her request was denied. On her journey back, she received a visit from an angel. The angel told her that she must choose between giving her life in the service of God, or marrying a pagan. She confirmed that she wanted to serve God. So, the angel instructed her to go to Cologne. When she arrived, Cologne was under siege by the Huns. She and her companions were instructed to serve their new mortal masters, the Huns. St. Ursula refused and told Atilla the Hun that he could have her body, but never her soul. Atilla pierced her heart with a dagger. Shortly thereafter, all of her companions who expressed belief in the one God were massacred. As these women met their death, their souls visibly ascended to heaven. The Huns were so frightened by the ascension scene that they fled the city. St. Ursula saved the city of Cologne.

Visiting Info:

  • Address: Ursulapl. 24, 50668 Köln
  • There’s a fee to enter the The Golden Treasury (2-4 EUR).
  • The Basilica is open Tuesday through Sunday. From Tuesdays to Saturdays, visiting hours are between 10 a.m. and 12:00 p.m. as well as between 3:00 p.m. and 4:30 p.m. On Sundays, visiting hours are only in the morning between 10:00 a.m. and 12:00 p.m.
Brauhaus Früh am Dom, Cologne, Germany | Moon & Honey Travel
Brauhaus Früh am Dom

Drinking Kölsch in a Brauhaus 

Kölsch is a light beer that is made and consumed in Cologne. Served in small cylinder-shaped glass, Kölsch is the beer of choice and most likely the only beer offered in a Kölner institution. The best place to drink Kölsch is in a Brauerei. Commonly, servers will bring you fresh glasses of Kölsch (without you asking) until you place a Bierdeckel (coaster) on top of your glass.

The most important thing to know about Kölsch is that it’s the best beer in the world. Okay, It really isn’t, but when locals ask you, please just say it’s delicious. Kölsch is as sacred to Cologne as is the Three Kings reliquary. Not Kidding.

Our favorite Brauereien in Cologne:

  • Lommerzheim in Deutz (Siegesstraße 18, 50679 Köln)
  • Früh am Dom in the Innenstadt (Am Hof 12, 50667 Köln)
  • Die Hausbraurei Päffgen near Friesenplatz (Friesenstraße 64-66, 50670 Köln)
RheinEnergieStadion, Cologne, Germany | Moon & Honey Travel
RheinEnergieStadion

Watching 1. FC Köln Play at the RheinEnergieStadion

FC Köln is Cologne’s professional Fußball (soccer) club that plays in the Bundesliga, which is the highest Fußball league in Germany. Given the Karneval tradition in Cologne, it’s no surprise how communal and festive the RheinEnergieStadion feels during a game. From the Höhner’s Mer stonn zo dir, FC Kölle hymne (anthem sung at the beginning of the game), to Hennes the Goat’s stately appearance (mascot of the team), to the battle-like drums and voices of the jumping fan section, watching a game in Cologne is anything but passive. The stadium holds 50,000 fans, which becomes a sea of red during a home game.

El-De Haus, Cologne, Germany | Moon & Honey Travel
El-De Haus

Visiting the NS Documentation Centre (EL-DE House)

The El-De building was the headquarters of the Cologne Gestapo (secret state police) from December 1935 to March 1945. The Gestapo was responsible for keeping the population under surveillance and persecuting the political and “racial” opponents of the Nazi regime. The Gestapo in Cologne deported and murdered thousands of people. Several hundred were executed in the inner courtyard of the El-De Building during the last few months of the war.

Today, the El-De Building is an excellent museum that houses the Memorial Gestapo prison and the permanent exhibition “Cologne during National Socialism.” The prison, located in the basement of the former Gestapo headquarters, still retains its prison cells and the wall inscriptions written by its former inmates. Walking in the prison is a vivid reminder of the atrocities carried out by the Gestapo and Nazi regime.  The permanent exhibition, which occupies the first and second floor of the building, thoroughly investigates and reveals the way National Socialism developed in Cologne.

Recommendation: Get the Audio Guide. It’s available in German, English, French, Dutch, Hebrew, Spanish, Polish and Russian (2 EUR).

Time you’ll need: At least 3 hours.

Address: Appellhofpl. 23-25, 50667 Köln

Christmas Market in Cologne, Germany | Moon & Honey Travel
Neumarkt Christmas Market, Cologne

Christmas Markets 

If you’re visiting Cologne in late November or December, don’t miss out on the various Christmas Markets throughout the city. They’re fantastic!!! 

  • Kölner Altstadt, Heimat der Heinzel at Altern Markt & Heumarkt – this is the best one.
  • Markt der Engel at Neumarkt – beautiful lighting, spacious.
  • Nikolausdorf at Rudolfsplatz – pretty, lovely, easy to get to.
  • Weihnachtsmarkt im Stadtgarten – this has a more alternative, local feel.
  • Harbour Christmas Market in front of the Chocolate Museum – this is nice, but definitely frequented by the most tourists (especially American river cruise passengers).
Der Kölner Dom, Cologne, Germany | Moon & Honey Travel
Der Kölner Dom

Visiting the Dom 

Der Kölner Dom (Cologne Cathedral) is the symbol of the city and a magnificent representation of gothic architecture. Its  gothic spires dominate the skyline, and can be seen from multiple vantage points within Cologne. The kölner lovingly say, “Home is where the Dom is.”

Remarkably, it took over 600 years to complete the construction of the Cathedral (1248- 1880). It was actually the Prussians, who occupied the city in the 19th century,  that directed the completion of the Dom.

The cathedral’s most valuable possession is the reliquary allegedly containing the skulls of the Three Kings. There is also a notable modern stained glass window, created by the German artist Gerhard Richter in the south transept.

During World War II, the cathedral endured fourteen hits by aerial bombs. 90 percent of the inner city of Cologne was destroyed, but the cathedral survived, because the twin spires were an easily discernible navigational landmark for the Allied forces.

No visit to cologne is complete without a visit to the Dom.

Guided Tours: We took the guided tour, conducted in English, and it was worth it.

Entrance: Free

Cologne's Old City Hall, Cologne Travel Guide, Germany
Cologne's Old City Hall

Unraveling Cologne’s Ancient Roman History

The story of Cologne begins with Agrippina the younger, who was born in Cologne in 15 AD. As the wife of Roman Emperor Claudius, she was able to convince her husband (who was also her uncle) to elevate her birthplace to Colonia Claudia Ara Agrippinensium (Colony of Claudius and Altar of the Agrippinians). By giving Cologne the status of Roman colony, the fortified settlement on the Rhine benefited from imperial rights. Fun fact: this is the only Roman colony to be named after a woman.

While Cologne was able to profit from its relationship with Agrippina, those closest to her were not as fortunate. Most scholars believe that she poisoned her third husband, Emperor Claudius, in order to make her son Nero (yes, the crazy, notorious one) Emperor. Her first two husbands also met unexpected and sudden deaths (rumored to be poison). And, because what goes around comes around, Agrippina met her own end at the hands of her son Nero. Agrippina is forever immortalized in a statue on Cologne’s Old City Hall. She’s the one standing on a black widow spider.

Cologne Travel Guide, Germany | Moon & Honey Travel

Cologne's Hidden Gems

off-the-beaten-track things to do & see
Neptunbad, Cologne, Germany | Moon & Honey Travel
Neptunbad
Neptunbad is a spa and fitness center in the Ehrenfeld neighborhood. This Japanese-inspired adult-only spa is composed of various pools and saunas. You can choose between a 2 hour, 4 hour, or full-day pass. With an in-house restaurant at your disposal, you can easily spend the whole day here. We highly recommend coming in Winter. Like most saunas in Germany, Neptunbad is textile-free (no bathing suits allowed). We recommend bringing flip flops, a towel (you can also rent one there), water bottle, and soap/shampoo.
Forest Botanical Garden, Cologne, Germany | Moon & Honey Travel
Forstbotanischer Garten
This Forest Botanical Garden is situated on the edge of the Rodenkirchen neighborhood. The best time to come is in Spring, when everything is blooming. We often rode our bikes through the surrounding park and then walked into the gated garden to admire the free-roaming peacocks.
Cologne Travel Guide, Germany | Moon & Honey Travel

What to Eat & Drink in Cologne

In terms of atmosphere, tradition, and revelry, the best places to eat in Cologne are the Brauerei. And hence, the first thing you should eat in Cologne is traditional Rhineland food. Overall, service is pretty good in the Brauerei. However, don’t expect good service in Cologne. It’s just not their forte. When you’ve had your fill of German food, go find the Turkish restaurants. Cologne has a sizeable Turkish community, and lucky for all of us, there’s great Turkish food in the city, especially on Keupstrasse.

 

Rhineland Specialties

Himmel un Ädtranslates as “heaven (or sky) and earth”. The main ingredients are apples (from the sky) and potatoes (from the earth), as well as black pudding and apple sauce.

 

Sauerbraten – translates as “sour roast.” Sauerbraten is made by marinating a beef roast in a sour-sweet marinade for 2 to 3 days before browning it. Next, the meat simmers in the marinade for several hours, which makes it very tender.

 

Halve Hahn – translates as “half a chicken.” This is somewhat of a joke, as there is no chicken in this dish. Halve Hahn is simply a rye roll, halved and topped with Gouda cheese. Mustard, pickles and onions are generally served on the side.

 

Reibekuchen (also called Kartoffelpuffer) – translates as “grated cakes.” It’s essentially a deeply fried potato pancakes made with potatoes, onions and eggs. It’s popular to eat these on the street at Christmas markets, fairs and sports events.  They’re delicious, but don’t over do it. You’ll die.

 

Flammkuchen – Alsatian pizza. Thin rectangular dough topped with various vegetables, cheeses and meats (no tomato sauce).

 

Rinderroulade – a meat dish which consists of bacon and onions, wrapped in a thin slice of beef, and then cooked. The meat is characteristically tender and soft. The dish is presented with usually 1-2 side dishes and gravy over the meat.

 

Drink

Kölsch beer – Sorry, you don’t have another choice.

Cologne Travel Guide, Germany | Moon & Honey Travel

Where to Eat & Drink in Cologne

Only the places we love

Bastian’s [Café and Bakery]

This spacious café is a cake lover’s paradise. We recommend coming to Bastian’s for a slice of cake and coffee, or to pick up a fresh loaf of bread.

Address: Auf dem Berlich 3-5, 50667 Köln

Miss Päpki [Café]

This delightfully bright café in Cologne is tucked away in the Belgian district. We come here for their quiche, soap and fresh tea. Service is kind, but slow, so please don’t come here if you’re in a rush. 

Address: Brüsseler Pl. 18, 50674 Köln

Morio [Wine Tavern]

Morio is a cozy Weinstube in the Nippes neighborhood of Cologne. Their menu features regional wine from Pfalz, Rheinhessen, Baden and Nahe. Morio also have a selection of tasty mediterranean appetizers. It’s easy to spend several hours here drinking wine and eating olives.

Address: Schillstraße 12, 50733 Köln

Weinstube Bacchus [Wine Tavern]

This Weinstube is located in Neustadt-Süd. The interior is warm and cozy, but on a summer night, it’s lovely to sit in their Weingarten (wine garden).

Address: Rathenaupl. 17, 50674 Köln

Kebapland [Turkish Eatery]

This simple eatery is without exception always busy. Order the plate with a charcoal grilled skewer of meat (minced lamb, chicken and others). It’s served with a side of salad, bread, and delicious sauces. You’ll dream about it after. 

Address: Venloer Str. 385, 50825 Köln

Lu [Vietnamese Restaurant]

Vietnamese restaurant that never disappoints. We loved their curries and salads. 

Address: Hohenstaufenring 21, 50674 Köln

Cologne Travel Guide, Germany | Moon & Honey Travel

Cologne Travel Guide Resources

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@moonhoneytravelers
  • Üsküdar is rarely a first, second, or third choice for places to explore in Istanbul. There are no trendy cafés, vintage shops, or entertainment venues here. But, we’d argue that Üsküdar delivers a completely authentic experience and gives visitors an opportunity to hop off the tourist track. This Asian-side district has many treasures. We’ve been uncovering them slowly this past week, starting with this mosque. The light-filled interior of Marmara University Faculty of Theology Mosque is poetry embodied. Can’t wait to share more of our finds this week.
  • We’re celebrating our blog’s one year anniversary. It’s filled with travel guides and hiking guides for destinations in Europe and Asia. We’re really proud of what we’ve accomplished. There’s always room for improvement and an endless list of things to do, but today we’re just going to say “it’s pretty damn good.” Have you checked it out? Come say hi! Link in bio, or moonhoneytravel.com
  • We‘ve been traveling almost continuously for 13 months. Being able to travel long term is an incredible privilege and gift. When we started our trip, we were out exploring every day at full speed. We didn’t want to miss anything. And, we felt an immense obligation to see and do as much as we possibly could. But after months on the road and getting destroyed by illness (more on that later), we decided that we needed to change our travel style.

We‘ve been in Istanbul for 1.5 months. Do we want to see more of Turkey? Of course! However, right now it feels right to stay here and soak up the vibe of one of the world‘s greatest cities.

Petsitting has allowed us to slow down and rest on the road and afford long term travel. 
If you’re interested in housesitting, we highly recommend @trustedhousesitters . To join, click the link in our bio. You’ll get 20% off the membership fee. Once you‘re a member, you can search for opportunities across the world. Yay for free accommodation and pets! 😺Photo of Oscar, the cat we‘re taking care of in Istanbul. #notsponsored
  • We’ve been pretty absent here the last week. Honestly, we needed a break. It’s terrifying to see how much time we waste aimlessly scrolling and clicking around on Instagram. We love seeing our friends and favorite bloggers’ updates (@eternalarrival @thesandyfeet @practicalwanderlust @alongdustyroads @lostwithpurpose to name a few), but we don’t want to get sucked in and realize a whole hour is gone. 
We’re curious, do you feel like you spend too much time on the app? And if so, what tools are you using to modify your Insta-behavior?

We tried simply logging out, but as soon as we logged back in, we were back at it. One thing that’s been helpful is the “manage your time” notification that’s actually built into Instagram. If you click the hamburger menu (top right) and then “Your Activity,” you can see exactly how many minutes, or hours, you’re spending on the app each day. Directly below the graph, there’s a manage your time section that lets you enable a daily reminder. You set it to how many minutes you want to spend on the app. When you reach that threshold, Instagram will notify you.

Travel Update: We’re still in Istanbul. We’re pet-sitting for the next 10 days and then heading somewhere we’ve never been before.
  • Another vantage point of our favorite waterside mosque in Istanbul. Doesn’t it look like its floating in the Bosphorus?
  • Ortaköy Mosque (Büyük Mecidiye Camii) is one of Istanbul‘s most memorable sites. Located in Ortaköy along the Bosphorus, this baroque-style mosque has the most dreamy, pink interior to compliment its stunning exterior.

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